Author Archives: andreamoritz

Final days – Vacationing on the Smiling Coast of Africa

Posted on by

The patio at Leybato

I am writing this while sitting on the patio at Leybato looking out at the waves crashing onto the beach.  As always, there are many young man jogging up and down the beach or doing push-ups and crunches.  Young Gambians like to keep fit and there are gyms all over the place in this country.  There is even one variety of lizard that is in on the fitness craze.  This grey and yellow creature often stops running and then begins to pump out a few push ups, bending and straightening his front legs while in a perfect plank position.  I’ll have to look it up in a field guide to find out what prompts this curious behaviour – surely he is not trying to build up his biceps to impress the lady lizards!

I hope to join the active beach crowd to go for a short jog this afternoon, time permitting, but after our TV interview aired last night (3 minutes into the news cast), I doubt I will have company.  A lady that can run from Koina to Banjul is just too scary!  It seems lots of people saw the interview on state television last night and I have been getting many positive comments this morning.

A look at the equipment at the radio station.

The radio interview we had recorded on the beach when we finished the run has now also been on the air.  The microphone used on the beach was defective, so we had to go to the studio to re-record the piece.  This was an experience in itself.  The studio’s equipment was not exactly the latest technology, but it worked.  Well, at least when the power is on. We had just started recording when the lights went out and we sat in complete darkness in the studio.  This gave us some time to joke around and chitchat and we started over when the power returned.

During the broadcast people were asked to phone in with comments or questions.  The response was overwhelming.  Kebba tried to call, but could not get through.  People were expressing their thanks, others were asking if it really was in Koina on the border with Senegal that we started, and yet others questioned whether I was human or some kind of she-devil, since they thought it impossible for any human to run this kind of distance (ultra running is practically unknown in the Gambia).  Many people stated that they would like to have a chance to meet me in person and that what I did for their children will never be forgotten.  People also wanted to know about my husband and whether he ran. When they learned he had recently completed a 100 mile run, they said that our children would be able to run around the entire world.  The reporter asked why I wasn’t on the Olympic team given how strong I was and I explained that I was far too slow and too old.  But no matter what the International Olympic Committee may think, I know that in the hearts of many Gambians, I am an Olympian ;-)   The sincerity of the callers and their genuine appreciation for what our team had accomplished was moving.

And speaking of accomplishments, the total funds raised from this year’s Love4Gambia run currently total $15,500.  This money will allow the NSGA to keep the lights on for a little while longer and to continue providing life-saving health education programs to young people, while at the same time teaching them valuable leadership skills.  And just because the run has now concluded does not mean that you can no longer donate.  Our Donate Now button on the web site remains active and contributions will still gladly be accepted.

Can you spot the chameleon on the picture?

But my last few days in the Gambia are not all about interviews and NSGA business.  There is also plenty of time to relax and play tourist.  Pa Modou and Kebba picked me up yesterday morning to take me sight seeing.  We started our day at the Reptile Farm.  I am a big fan of snakes, lizards, chameleons, skinks and the like.  The farm did not disappoint.  Our guide walked us around and talked to us about the various reptiles they had.  She let us hold the chameleon, which sat on my hand with its tail curled in a perfect spiral.  We also saw scorpions, small crocodiles and many different kinds of snakes.  These reptiles were either in concrete enclosures that did not look high enough to deter a determined snake from leaving or they were in glass terrariums, some of which had inoperative locks to keep the gate closed.  Our guide reassured us, that no snake had ever escaped.

The beautiful egg eating snake!

We were joined on our tour by two young Dutch women and a family with two young children.  All had been eager to hold the chameleon and when the guide brought out and egg-eating snake, she also had some volunteers.  Egg-eaters do not have teeth or venom, so are completely harmless.  After holding and examining this yellowish snake for a time, I uncoiled it from around my right arm and passed it on the young boy.

The mighty python!

But when we came to the terrarium where the pythons were kept, I was suddenly the only volunteer to want to hold one.  Everyone else backed away just a step or two.  I took the snake from the guide and it started moving along my upper body, its tongue probingly coming out to get a sense of me.  It tickled my skin.  The snake wound itself around me and the other people gathered up their courage and came closer to watch or even touch it somewhere far away from the head.  When Pa Modou was near me, I took the snake’s head and waved it in front of Pa’s face.  His expression was priceless and he jumped back with a shout.  We all had a nice laugh at his expense, but then he manned up and even held the snake briefly, as did Kebba.  I got to keep holding it while we went along visiting some turtles, but then had to put it back in its terrarium.

A stall in the market in Serekunda.

We left the reptile centre and took a drive along the Senegambia area.  We stopped in a fishing village along the way and saw the fishermen repairing their nets and working on their boats.  The women were grilling and selling fish from today’s catch.  Pa Modou is a Serre and this ethnic group has traditionally been in the fishing business.  He enjoyed having a chance to speak in his own language with the people on the beach, as he doesn’t often have the chance to do so at work or with friends.  From the fishing village we drove to the market in Serekunda to do some shopping.  I wanted to pick up a few gifts and souvenirs.  Kebba negotiated hard on my behalf and my newly acquired fame from the media interviews contributed to getting decent prices rather than tourist pricing.

Shaking hands (paws?) with mama monkey!

From the market, we drove to the monkey park.  While travelling up country, we had often seen baboons and a smaller, light coloured type of monkey crossing the road.  I had also seen some red monkeys jumping from tree to tree chattering loudly.  Here at the monkey park, the light coloured monkeys came to greet us on the street to get their share of peanuts.  We had bought a couple of bags of peanuts and while I am not in the habit of feeding wild animals, there was clearly nothing wild about these monkeys.  One female who had a baby attached to her belly was not even concerned by the fact that I gently touched the little one peeking at me with enormous eyes.  The baby’s fur was so much softer than the mature one’s.  The little one was suckling simultaneously on the mother’s two nipples.

My new best friend forever!

The monkeys stood on their hind legs to reach up and take peanuts from our hands.  Some also followed us down the trail eagerly staring at our hands and occasionally grabbing.  We went deeper into the bush and then also saw red monkeys in the trees.  These ones hardly ever come down and are not easily bribed by food.  It was getting a bit dark and taking photos of these fast moving and shy creatures was difficult.  Further along the trail, a monkey was seated on a tree stretched across the trail.  I stopped and reached up while he extended his hand down to take a peanut.  I guess he decided it tasted like more, so he jumped on my shoulder and attempted to wrestle the whole bag out of my hand.  We had a short tug of war, which I won.  Yet he stayed on my shoulder for a little while longer.  We were followed by a small group of monkeys and I handed out peanuts.  Every now and again there was some screeching as the primates chased each other away to get the choice morsels.

Following all that monkey business, Kebba dropped me back off at Leybato.  I went to the beach restaurant and ordered some food and a glass of wine.  After dinner, Leif, who manages the resort with his wife Sussane, invited me to a glass of cognac in celebration of their 27th wedding anniversary.  We had a few drinks, ate Crepe Suzette as a midnight snack and talked about the Gambia, Europe, travelling and the challenges of running a business in the Gambia.  They told me that when they began managing the hotel, staff had not been paid in over a year, but showed up to work anyway, as they would get some food and the occasional tip from customers.  Now they were getting paid again and everyone at Leybato seems quite happy to be working there and takes pride in their jobs.

Morning came early after a late night and Kebba and Pa came to pick me up to go to the Crocodile Pool.  I visited the museum first, where I learned about traditional celebratory masks of the different ethnic groups, musical instruments used in the Gambia, as well as about traditional household and farming implements.  Then it was time to visit the crocs.  Even though the big animals were walking around freely, I was less worried by them than I was by the mosquitoes devouring my legs.  I had so many bites that I started jumping up and down, slapping my legs.  One of the staff had pity on me and poured some cold water over my lower legs.  What a relief!  But it was short lived and after snapping a few photos with the crocodiles, we were out of there.

At the NSGA office, we met the four Canadian volunteers who showed off the gorgeous dresses they had made at the market.  A lunch had been planned for us with the staff and after many kind words said about the dedication of the young women who spent a month here to teach peer health at schools and then to work in hospitals as interns, it was their turn to address the group.  Like I had done at an earlier occasion, they also stated that they had gained far more from their experience in the Gambia than they felt they had given.  They, too, were moved to tears by the kindness and spirit of the Gambian people and I know they also plan to be back and will spread the word about the good work  of the NSGA when they return to Canada.

Relaxing at Leybato.

I am now enjoying my last afternoon at Leybato.  I will lace up my Mizunos one last time here in the Gambia for a run along the beach and will then go for a swim before packing my bags for the trip to Europe.  Insha’Allah, I shall return to the Smiling Coast of Africa someday soon.  But first, a three week European adventure awaits!

Love from the Gambia,

Bintou

Day 16 and 17 – Celebration

Posted on by

Hard to believe, but our final run day was here!  Kebba and Pa Modou picked me up at Leybato in the morning to drive the short distance to our starting point in Westfield.  There we were met by our police escort, Spider and his wife Jane, the staff of the Nova Scotia Gambia Association’s local office and a TV and radio crew. And here I thought I had received the rock star treatment yesterday, but today was even more exciting.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day16

The extended Love4Gambia Team!

The mood was excited and celebratory from the beginning.  We only had the short distance of 13 kilometers to cover to reach Banjul and the Atlantic.  We took off with the police motor bike in front, then our group of runners consisting of the team and NSGA staff and friends, followed by the support vehicle and a few other cars piled full of excited staff members.  Team Love4Gambia was an entire convoy today!  And what’s more, runners from around the world were joining us for the last few miles, running in their respective countries at the same time as we covered the last stretch to the Atlantic.  Marc had organized this via Facebook, making our Love4Gambia finale an international event attended by people in Australia, the UK, United States, Canada, South Africa and elsewhere around the globe.

The police escort was very valuable.

My nausea was forgotten in all the excitement and we took off at a blistering pace (relatively speaking, of course!).  We waved and shouted at people on the side of the road and in their vehicles and we sang and chanted as we ran.  What an incredible feeling.  But after a few kilometres, the pace I had set in my excitement proved to be a little too rich for some of the runners and we settled into an easier gear.  This also allowed us to enjoy the final stretch for longer.  The TV crew was in a vehicle just ahead of us, filming us as we ran along.

The Love4Gambia 2012 team is closely knitted.

It is hard to put into words the emotions I was feeling.  This run had become so much more than “just” a fundraiser.  Strong bonds had formed between members of our incredible team that can only be forged by shared experiences of the magnitude we had lived for the past two weeks.  Connections had been built with individuals and communities across the country.  The support and friendship extended from good friends at home and abroad and the unwavering dedication of my partner Marc showed me how blessed I am to have such amazing people in my life.  The generosity of sponsors like Mizuno Canada, which provided all my shoes and running apparel; Lambert Cycles, which provided me with a Garmin; and Aerobics First, which made the sponsor contacts for me, was overwhelming, as was that of the many donors who contributed to ensuring the life-saving programs of the NSGA will go on. The heart-felt thanks and warm hospitality of the Gambian people will never be forgotten.  And most of all, the broad smiles and excited shouts of the children will stay forever with me.

There is no sweeter finish line than the Atlantic Ocean!

There is no sweeter finish line than the Atlantic Ocean!

We stopped on the Denton Bridge to take some photos, causing a traffic jam and violating the “no stopping on bridge” rule of the road.  Soon after, we reached the arc to the main road of the capital.  We stopped again for more photos and peer health educators from the school located there came out to say hello.  As we ran down the broad street, a woman came up to say hi and when she heard what we had done, she shook my hand and told me she would forever consider me a friend.  We left the main road and made our way through some narrow street and then around a corner, there it was – the Atlantic Ocean.

Sharing a very emotional moment in each others arms.

The other runners had fallen behind to let the four members of our team see it first.  We joined hands and ran out to the beach, where we paused and spontaneously fell into each others’ arms in a long and emotional group hug, our foreheads touching.  We said a few private words to each other and then we joined hands and ran into the Atlantic together.  We had done it!  Team Love4Gambia had completed its incredible journey.

Let the celebration begin!

When we had our fill of splashing around, Spider hoisted me on his shoulders and so we walked out of the water.  The TV and radio crews were standing by to interview us.   We celebrated our success on the beach with all those who had joined us today.  Yet, while the team was elated, we also all felt a twinge of sadness that our adventure was finished and that we wouldn’t be on the road tomorrow to see what the day would bring.

The next day, there was no alarm clock to wake me up.  I slept in and then went for a leisurely breakfast on the beach instead of eating a sandwich in the car.  Then I went for a massage.  Here, the RMT does not have to pop a CD with the sound of the waves and birds into the stereo system, but these sounds drift in through the open door from the beach outside.

After lunch, we had a meeting at the office of the Nova Scotia – Gambia Association.  The entire team was there and one after the other expressed their appreciation for the team’s efforts.  Their comments were touching and Kebba in particular almost made me cry.  Everyone in this office had contributed to making our voyage across the country a success.  The passion and commitment to development issues as well as to the youth of the Gambia was clearly evident from each and every member of this group of dedicated employees.  Their vision to grow Love4Gambia into an international ultra marathon also shone through loud and clear.  If you think you might like to live this adventure yourself, either in its entirety or as part of a relay team, please get in touch with us through this web site.  I guarantee you that you will take far more from the experience than you will ever be able to give!

I now have a couple of days to enjoy the Smiling Coast of Africa as a tourist.  On the agenda for tomorrow is a visit to the reptile centre (I am a bit of a reptile fan) and to the market in Serrekunda (yes, and I am a shopaholic, too).

By tomorrow, I hope to receive a tally of how much money has been raised through Love4Gambia to date.  Stay tuned for this update and please note it is not too late to give through this web site by clicking on the Donate Now button.  A sincere thank you to all those who have so generously contributed already.  I have seen the need in the Gambia and I have also witnessed the impact the NSGA has here.  We get young people talking about important issues concerning their health that are considered taboo topics by their elders.  Young people do not learn about sexual reproductive health, sexually transmitted diseases, teenage pregnancies, the right to say “no” and other important issues from their parents or teachers.  They are often also unaware of how diseases like malaria or water-borne diseases are transmitted and can be prevented.  The NSGA talks about these important topics and then gets youth to share what they learn with others.  In doing so, these young people also learn important life skills, such as organizing workshops, teaching, leadership skills and more.  You can ensure that this important work continues.

Stay tuned for more updates from the Smiling Coast!

Hugs,

Bintou

Days 14 and 15 – July 8 and 9 – Banjul calling!

Posted on by

After enjoying the hospitality of the Nova Scotia – Gambia Association’s country director and his lovely family, it was time to hit the road again.  Our hostess prepared a fantastic breakfast and then we set off.  The director came with us and drove the vehicle today.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day14

We had been on the road for two weeks now and I knew the team was missing their families.  And from speaking to their wives on the phone from time to time, I also knew they were missed at home. Since we were getting close to the coast, we had decided to drive there after our run, so the guys could spend the night at home.

Even Mother Nature expressed her support to Love4Gambia!

To make sure they got home quickly, I decided to try for a good and long run today without many stops.  After an afternoon and night of heavy rain, there was still a light drizzle in the morning and it was fairly cool.  This helped my plan greatly.  Not long after we began running, the drizzle turned into a downpour.  I had been longing for a good long shower with full water pressure and today it was provided courtesy of Mother Nature.  As a result of the rain, there were fewer people out and about, which also resulted in fewer stops to chat.  I only stopped at kilometre 21 to change into a dry pair of socks and Mizuno Ronins to prevent my feet from the blistering.  I had also taken off my hydration pack and shirt, as the pack had caused some chafing in the heavy rain.

In one village, a group of people were sitting on a porch looking out into the rain.  When they saw me coming by, the kids starting shouting “toubab, toubab!” and then began laughing hysterically.  They probably wondered what this crazy white lady was doing running half naked in the rain.  As we got closer to the larger towns near the coast, traffic began to get heavier on the road. I ran nearly 35 kilometers that day and felt great.  We had arrived in Brikama. This meant the remaining two days would be easy and low mileage compared to what we had done before.

We then drove to town, first surprising Pa Modou’s wife Agie with our early arrival in Westfield.  Then we dropped Spider at the Old Bakadaji, the restaurant managed by him and his wife Jane.  Another happy reunion.  Next Kebba dropped me off at my accommodation and headed back to Brikama to see his family.

The Atlantic Ocean; now that’s a sight for sore eyes…and knees…and feet…

It had stopped raining and I decided to go for a quick swim in the ocean before getting cleaned up.  I also hand washed my laundry and thanked my lucky stars again for having a washer and dryer at home.  The things we take for granted!  I dare you to do your laundry by hand for a week to get just a glimpse of how hard people (read: women!) work here every day around the home in addition to work they do to earn a living.

After the laundry was hanging on the line to dry, I headed to the restaurant by the beach for some lunch.  Just after I had finished, one of the dogs that belonged to the hotel came up from the beach with one of the staff in tow.  He explained the dog, Whiskey, had tried to eat one of his fishing hooks and the evidence was clearly visible in the dog’s mouth.  Sussane, who runs the place with her husband, held the dog while the fisherman tried to remove the hook.  But Whiskey was putting up a fight.  I got up to help and squeezed the dog’s body between my legs, so he couldn’t back away and then forced his mouth open with my hands.  Whiskey struggled as Sussane was trying to remove the hook, which wouldn’t budge because of the barb at the end.  Whiskey howled in pain and his buddy Brownie came over to see what was happening.  I talked to the dog soothingly and told him how brave he was.  Since the hook wouldn’t give, our strategy was to find some pliers and to cut it.  Finally, the metal was cut and the hook could be removed.  Whiskey was no worse for wear and after a few rubs behind the ear took back off to the beach.  My hand was bleeding where he had bitten me in his pain and panic to get away, so we attended to this next.  It was just a scratch and I made sure to disinfect it after cleaning it up.  A whole lot of excitement for one afternoon!

The NSGA family!

Later in the evening, I headed to Spider and Jane’s restaurant for dinner where we were also met by Agie and Pa Modou.  I then came back early to get a good sleep.  But before going to bed, I wanted to check my email real quick and as I entered the restaurant by the beach, where I could get wi-fi, the four NSGA volunteers were there for dinner.  We ended up talking and catching up for a while.

The next morning, Kebba came to pick me up and we drove back to Brikama to start the run.  On the way we were going to pick up Pa and Spider, as well as grab some breakfast.  I was feeling a bit off that morning, but thought I’d just need some food.  We pulled over and I got out of the car, since I knew I wasn’t done yet.  My legs felt like jello and my hands were shaking.  All I could think was: “Oh, no, please, just two more days!”  My body had held up amazingly well in the heat, tolerated unfamiliar foods, some unsanitary conditions, a nasty fall on day one, and a whole lot of exercise. I had come to think of this as normal.  This morning showed me how lucky I had been to date.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day15

The guys are always looking after me.

Kebba bought me a cola and we drove on.  I felt slightly better and ate a sandwich in the car.  When we got to Brikama, we met our police escort, who would be with us for the rest of the way, as traffic was very busy.  The inspector would drive ahead of us on his motor bike, we would follow behind and the support vehicle would bring up the rear.  This way, we were much safer on the busy road.  We briefed the inspector on stopping for Gatorade periodically, preferably in a shady spot, as it was hot again.  Then the motor bike took off, with lights and sirens, and we followed behind.

Ever smiling Gambians cheering for the team!

This was pretty exciting and if you think I attracted a lot of attention running through the country before now, then you should have seen the rock star treatment I was getting with our police escort!  People were shouting, clapping, cheering and pumping their fists in the air.  While many may have had no idea for what and why we were running, word had spread from village to village that a toubab was running across the Gambia for peer health.  I would also often meet people who told me that they had seen me running by in other parts of the country.  The Gambia is small and people are quite mobile.  Case in point was the man riding a motorcycle in the opposite direction from our run today who suddenly started waving and crying: “Bintou, Bintou!”, calling me by my Gambian name.  It was the man who had video recorded us on his iPhone somewhere up country during our run!

The excitement got me through the first few kilometres, but my body clearly did not want to cooperate today.  I got sick again and my legs felt rubbery. So much for an easy day today!  But if the body isn’t strong, the mind has to be doubly so, as I had a job to do.  I told myself I could do this and that if we reached our goal of running the 23 kilometers to Westfield, then only about 15 kilometer celebration remained tomorrow.  The team told me we could stop any time if I didn’t feel up to the task today and we could pick it up the next day, but I was determined.

It was not easy to disappear into the bushes inconspicuously to pee with this police escort and I had to time my nature breaks so we were in a quieter area.  But eventually we got closer to the hustle and bustle of the city and ran on a highway.  There was nowhere to hide here.  When I had to go again urgently, I explained to the guys that I needed a washroom.  No problem, they said.  There was an army barracks up the road and they would likely let me use the washroom there.  So, with a police escort, I ran up to the barracks.  There, a military police officer escorted me inside, as I sheepishly carried my role of toilet paper (there rarely is paper in washrooms here and most people don’t use it), greeting the many members of the Gambian forces gathered in the courtyard.  The MP brought me to a desk from where a young man in uniform escorted me to the bathroom.  He went in ahead of me to check the place out, fill a kettle with water (which is what people use instead of paper), and to inspect the door lock.  When it did not work, he stood guard outside as I did my business inside.  I can honestly say this was the most official bathroom break I have taken in my life and in spite of feeling lousy, I had a good laugh.

Back outside, the heat was getting worse.  As always after a day of rain, the sun came back with a vengeance and the temperatures soared.  To add to my discomfort, the traffic was now insanely busy and countless vehicles and trucks were belching their exhaust fumes at us.  The Gambia does not seem to have any emission control standards for vehicles and often, when a vehicle got a chance to pass our escort and accelerated, black clouds emanated from their tail pipes. As I trudged up a hill, a crowd outside a shop cheered me on and a man shouted: “Courage!” in French.

When we reached the top of the hill, we pulled over under a tree to drink.  But I was overcome by nausea again and as my body was heaving, one of the guys came up behind me to squeeze my rib cage.  These guys have been taking such amazing care of me and nothing is too much for them.  I have no idea how I will ever be able to thank them for sharing this incredible journey with me.

Eventually, we reached the stopping point for the day in Westfield.  We had run by Pa Modou’s house and his wife Agie and some friends were out to cheer us on.  Now I sat down on the side of the road and the guys came over to tell me how strong I had been and how proud they were.  I could feel the emotion well up inside me.  We made it – not just through this day, but through an entire country.  No matter what, we will be able to get those last 13 kilometers done tomorrow to jump into the Atlantic Ocean.

But the party will have to wait until then.  I thanked our police man and we arranged a time for tomorrow morning.  I then went back to my accommodation where Sussane had a cup of tea with lemon, sugar and salt prepared for me to help me settle my stomach.  I drank it after a short swim in the ocean and while relaxing in a hammock.  Next it was time to treat myself for a massage!  There was a small hut on the beach where Ibrahim, a trained massage therapist, works.  He rubbed my aching body down to release some of the tight muscles.

Running for all Gambians, big and small!

Tomorrow morning at 8:00 a.m. will be my last rendez-vous with the South Bank Road.  Read all about it here soon.  And remember, it is not too late to donate to the Nova Scotia – Gambia Association through this web site’s Donate Now button to help save the life of a child.

Lots of love from this side of the Atlantic Ocean!

Andrea

Days 12 and 13 – July 6 and 7 – Recharging the batteries and the start of the final push

Posted on by

Yesterday was our second and final rest day on this journey across the Gambia.  I was staying at Sindola Lodge, a real treat for the tired body.  My room was air conditioned, had a working overhead shower, electricity 24/7 and free wi-fi.  But the best part of it all was the pool where I could soak my body and let the water gently massage my legs.

Lobby at the Sindola Lodge

I slept in until about 8:00 and then went for a nice breakfast by the pool.  A man joined me to talk and I learned a lot about the area and the predominant ethnic group in the region, the Jola.  I then strolled over to a big tree near the reception where weaver birds were coming and going, busily building their nests.  A game ranger is South Africa once told me that the male weaver builds the nest and that the female then comes to inspect it.  If it is not to her liking, she will sever what attaches the nest to the branch and it crashes to the ground.  The male then has to start all over again!  When I commented to one of the girls working in the restaurant how noisy the birds were, she told me that in Mandinka, they call someone who talks a lot a weaver bird.

The weaver bird male anxiously awaiting inspection!

After breakfast, it was time to do some laundry.  I hand washed two tubs of running gear and clothing and then hung everything up on a phone cable outside to dry.  Marc and I also had a chance to Skype that morning, as the internet connection was fast.  So nice to see him!

Enjoying the pool!

Then I figured it was time to jump into the pool.  The water was so refreshing and I swam lap after lap, having the whole pool to myself.  Not long after, Pa Modou, Spider and Kebba arrived.  They also jumped into the pool and we splashed and horsed around like kids for a while.  A young man came over from the gym and I recognized

The whole team was enjoying the pool!

him as one of the soldiers who had been at the military check point in Kalagi.  He had recognized me as well (not that impressive, as there are not many toubabs running across the country) and wanted to say hello.  He was now posted at the President’s palace, which was literally around the corner from Sindola.  And sure enough, in the early evening, we heard a gun salute, drumming and the sirens of a motorcade, all signs indicating the President was coming home from the capital for the weekend.

Following our swim, we went to Kebba’s sister’s house for dinner.  She had made her delicious shrimp and chips.  We were welcomed at her home and also met the two American Peace Corps volunteers who lived next door with a tiny kitten.  Kebba’s sister is a remarkable woman who recently took in a tiny infant from a teenage mom who was unable to care for the child herself.

When I got back to my hotel, a soldier accompanied some VIPs to their rooms in the hotel.  We started talking in the lobby and it turns out he was a former Gambian rugby great and is now the commander of the forces in the area of the President’s palace.  We spoke about sports and about Love4Gambia and maybe next year we will have some members of the forces running with us for short stretches.

It was already late in the evening.  I enjoyed a cold shower and then headed to bed.   We had an early start planned yet again.

I got up on time and Pa Modou and Kebba arrived shortly after I was ready.  But since the reception staff hadn’t arrived yet, I couldn’t settle my bill, so we waited.  When we finally left Sindola, we were already a bit late.  We had to stop at Kebba’s sister’s house to pick up Spider and to say our good-byes.  Some of Kebba’s relatives had arrived and a family meeting was required.  I waited in the yard playing with the kids while Kebba and his family discussed some family business.   When we were ready to go, some of the women ran to the gate of the yard with me to hoots and hollers from the kids.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day13

Running with children is at least as inspiring as running for them!

The boys squeezed into the car with us and we drove to the starting point for today.  After buying some water, we set off, the boys by my side.  It turns out they were pretty amazing runners and although some of them were small, they easily ran a mile – some barefoot, some in sandals or flip flops, and one boy, whose sandal came loose, kicked it up into his hand in one smooth motion without breaking stride and then continue with one sandal on and the other off.

By the time we had started running, it was already past 9:00 a.m. and I don’t think I need to state the obvious with respect to the temperature.  It was going to be a long day!  Just after the boys left us, we came to the house of one of Pa Modou’s friends.  We stopped to say hello and visit for a little while.  One of the ladies than came and ran a few hundred meters with me – good on her!  Slightly further down the road, we came to Kebba’s in-law’s house.  Again, we stopped, visited and handed out stickers, which the kids promptly put all over their faces.  Stickers could be found on foreheads, ears, noses, cheeks and chins.

Back on the road, a few military trucks came our way and each time I gave my finest salute, which was returned by many of the soldiers in the truck and acknowledged by the drivers with loud honks of the horn.  With each step, we were getting closer to Banjul and today was the day where we would go from triple digits to double digits for our remaining number of kilometres!

Even though it was getting late in the morning, the team decided we would stick to our planned distance of 34 kilometers for the day.  At around kilometre 30, we reached the house of the Nova Scotia Gambia Association’s country director, who came out to greet us.  We would be enjoying his hospitality and that of his family later, but first the last few kilometres needed to be covered.

Who knows what lies beneath the surface…

Just after passing by the house, we came to a flooded rice field and some young boys were fishing in the water.  They told us there was a crocodile in the water, so we went to investigate.  We stood at the water’s edge for a while, the boys throwing rocks to get the croc to surface, until we finally saw it lift its head high enough for his eyes and nose to peek out of the water.  I thought the boys were pretty brave to fish in this water, as this involved being submerged, rather than fishing with a rod.  Kebba told me that crocs sometimes chase the women working the rice fields, but that to date no accident had happened in the area.

Mosquito net fishing on the Gambia river.

We tore ourselves away from the croc watch and put in our last few kilometres.  The day was finally done!  When we went to put down the mat so I could lay down and relax, a small boy saw that Kebba was using a branch from a tree to sweep the ground.  He came running over with a broom that we could borrow.  His kind gesture was rewarded with a minty.

Following a little recovery time, we made our way back to the house of the country director where we received a warm welcome from him and his family.  One of the boys put a bucket of water in the shower for me and I got cleaned up before we enjoyed a delicious lunch.

By now it was pouring outside, but the heat did not subside.  When the rain stopped, I walked out to the washroom and saw a large water monitor, the largest type of lizard, scurry out of my path.  In a panic, he tried to climb a fence, but unlike small lizards who are able to climb walls, this big guy came crashing back to the ground doing a belly flop before taking the long way around.

Earlier in the rice field, I had noticed an abundance of bird life and I was curious to check it out.  Elle, the 15 year old son, offered to take me to the area and some of his friends came along.  We took the short cut through a grassy area and saw some red monkeys jumping around in the trees.  We watched them with my binoculars for a time and then moved on.  The boys told me that this area was full of reptiles – snakes, lizards, water monitors and more.  I kept my eyes peeled, but to my great disappointment, I still had not seen a snake.

We also saw a variety of birds. The Gambia is a birder’s paradise and I am always on the lookout for the amazing flashes of colour.  Once we arrived at the rice field, the boys told me to tread softly, so the crocodiles wouldn’t come running.  We slopped through the wet field in our flip flops, carefully avoiding areas where the water was more than ankle deep.  Then we watched by the river for a while to see if we could spot a croc, but no luck.  By the road, we saw a group of children fishing.  They were all holding on to the sides of a mosquito net, which they dragged through the water and then lifted quickly once some fish were inside.  Other kids were lunging themselves into the water to try to catch fish with their bare hands of plastic bags.  The kids were giggling and shouting and when they saw us watching, proudly showed off their catch.

From the river, we walked up to see the boys’ school and then we headed back to the house.  As we were coming down the road by other houses, the familiar cries of “toubab!” rang out and a group of small children started following us all the way back to the house and into the gate.  When I disappeared inside the house after saying my good-byes, they stood on the porch and peaked at me through the window.

The Love4Gambia 2012 team is drawing near, very near to the Atlantic Ocean!

Less than 80 kilometers remain in our journey.  It is hard to believe we have come this far and that the rich and enriching experiences I have been living here every day will soon be but a memory.  But the South Bank Road is not done with us yet and tomorrow is another day, which will no doubt be full of great encounters.

Lots of love,

Bintou

Day 11 July 5 – Made it through a big week!

Posted on by

Eager to finish today’s run and get to our rest day, we left the river camp early and said good-bye to Rasta man who ran the camp.  The morning was fresh after last night’s rain.  We drove the 5 kilometers back on the road to the point where I had finished the previous day’s run.  Kebba and I set off quickly, determined to leave the dirt road behind and to benefit from the cooler temperatures.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day11

When we reached the end of the dirt road and the river camp, Rasta man was standing on the bridge, cheering us on and wishing us well for the rest of the journey.  Right after the bridge, we stopped at the military check point to say hello to the soldiers.   I asked them a few questions about the Gambian military and learned that they are often part of the UN’s Peace Keeping Forces.  I told them that it had been Canadian Prime Minister Lester B. Pearson who had come up with the concept of peace keeping.  All three of the young man I was speaking to had done a tour in Darfur.  We took some photos together for which they hid their large rifles behind a tree and then we were off again.

Working hard on the dirt road.

I don’t usually run with music, but today I took out my iPod to listen to some tunes instead of the frog concerts, bird calls, bleating of the goats and braying of the donkeys.  Instead, the Talking Heads, Nirvana, Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Miriam Makeba and the entire Drakensberg Boys Choir singing Shosholoza (a song very dear to South Africans and Comrades runners from around the world) were my companions.  Kebba was also listening to music on his cell phone.

So many children in the Gambia need your help!

I noticed a car pulling up beside me and turned my head in surprise, as Pa Modou was ahead of us in the support vehicle.  It turned out to be Ongul, Oumie and the Nova Scotia volunteers Katie, Lauren, Pam and Stephanie.  They had finished teaching the peer health education courses in the schools they had targeted and were now on their way back to Banjul to start their placements in hospitals.  It was great to see them!  We got caught up on the latest news and then they joined me in the run for a few hundred meters.  Lauren challenged to a sprint and Kebba and I took the bait.  Don’t ask me where we found the energy – maybe the thought that tomorrow was a day off after six straight days of running over 30 kilometers was helping.  Or maybe it was the spirit of support from the extended team.

By now we were more than half way through today’s run and Spider had also joined Kebba and I now.  We occasionally stopped to shake hands and speak to people and I earned a new nickname today.  The first time someone called me this new name was at the river camp, when Rasta man said I had the strength of a lion.  One of the soldiers at the military check point also said I was a lion (he had told me as well that he would like me to carry his family name – not sure if as his sister or his wife!).  And a woman we met at one of the villages referred to me as a lion as well.  Anyone who knows how much I admire the big, graceful cats will know how flattered I was.

The guys are always there to support me!

Near the end of today’s run, we reached another military check point.  This one actually stopped us whereas we usually just get waived through any control point, whether military or police.  Our vehicle has an NGO license plate and these type of organizations do not give bribes as a matter of principle.  This soldier wanted to check the back of our vehicle, so we opened it up while telling our story.  He was intrigued by the fact that we were running such a long distance and I assured him that as a result, all he’d find in the back of our car was smelly shoes and dirty running socks. He smiled and said all was well and we talked a little more about our run and he saluted me three times while we spoke.  Then I got a final crisp military salute and smile as a good-bye.

Now only a few kilometres remained and we were going to finish the day in Kebba’s home town.  Kebba had run nearly the entire day with me today and was proud to be running at home, waving at friends and relatives as we went through town.  We finished our day at the far edge of town after 32.2 kilometers.  Another great day!  Then we went by Kebba’s sister’s house for a quick visit.  She had prepared some delicious domodah and shrimps and chips for us.  We played with the adorable kids in the yard for a while, chasing each other around.  The little ones loved their dinosaur stickers and all had some stuck on their arms and clothing, showing them off proudly.  The girl in her school uniform received a pencil instead and was happy with the gift.    These kids were so playful and absolutely adorable.  I hope we’ll have a chance to see them again tomorrow.

Enjoying a well deserved rest.

Next it was time to find accommodation.  The first place we tried did not have power at all, so we went to look at something else, especially since we were going to spend two nights.  The second place we investigated also didn’t work out, so the guys decided we’d drive back along the road for a short stretch to the village where the Gambian President was born and raised.   At the edge of the village was a resort.  I was in for a major treat!  The place has power, air condition, Wi-Fi, a shower with real water pressure and – get this – a swimming pool!!  I had landed in the lap of luxury!

It wasn’t just the team who arrived at Sindola Safari Lodge, but we were plus one.  Pa Modou had spotted a small turtle on the road as we were driving towards the resort.  The poor thing was at risk of getting run over by a car.  So we stopped and I wanted to put it to the side of the road, but Kebba suggested we take it along.  I picked it up and climbed back into the car.  The little turtle had receded into its shell and had covered its face with its front legs in a “if I can’t see you, you can’t see me” fashion.  I kept it on my outstretched palm and as we were driving, it got up enough courage to sneak a peek at me and then to slowly come out of its shell.  When we arrived at Sindola, I walked up to the reception desk (none of the places we had stayed before had such a thing!) and sat the turtle down on the desk while I completed the required paperwork.  Kebba suggested I take it to my room and keep it over night to keep me company, but I thought it should be set free.  So I took it to a small pond in the nicely landscaped garden and sat it down in the grass.  The gardener was nearby and saw us and he suggested they mark the turtle with a splash of paint on its shell in order for it to be recognizable as the one I had brought who would now have a home at Sindola.   And so it was done.  We named it L4G, as in Love4Gambia, and it is now happily enjoying its new home.

The guys left shortly after settling me in and I headed over to the bar by the pool to sit on the deck and take advantage of the Wi-Fi.  As I was checking messages and enjoying a cold cola, a group of young Gambian girls arrived.  They were not guests at the hotel, but had purchased access to the pool for 50 dallasis each.  All of them were dressed up, wore make-up and long wigs or had their hair done in an elaborate fashion.  They headed past me to the pool and stripped down to their underwear, as they did not have swim suits.  When they took the steps down into the pool they realized it was fairly deep and none of them could swim.  So they splashed around on the steps for a short time and then called out to me: “Hey, sister, come in here and teach us how to swim!”.  I had been planning to take a dip in the cool water to soothe my legs, so I gladly accepted the invitation.  I told them I had to change into my swim suit and when I re-emerged from my room in a bikini, I received a round of applause and cheers.  I got into the water and the swimming lesson began right away.

First I showed them how to move their arms for the breast stroke, emphasizing the need to push water behind them with their arms.  They moved their arms as I showed them.  Next, we held on to the edge of the pool and I demonstrated how to move the legs in a frog kick.  Again, they mimicked the motion.  Now it was time to put the two together and the two girls named Fatou, the most eager students, tried to swim from one end of the steps to the other.  Good try!  We practiced some more along the edge of the pool and then Fatou 1 ordered me to stand deeper into the pool and announced she was going to swim towards me.  There was no life guard on duty, so I was it.  My chin barely reached above the water level, but I was on solid ground, so we counted to three and Fatou paddled off, her face in the water, arms and legs flailing.  When she reached me, I grabbed her and pulled her up.  We high fived each other and she was pleased as punch.  Fatou 2 was just slightly less comfortable, but she also reached me and again we pumped our fists into the air to underscore her success.  The girls’ mascara was running down their cheeks and the nicely styled hair was soaked.  After more practice and adding the crawl, Fatou 1 managed to swim a length across the pool.  One of her friends had documented the entire lesson from the edge of the pool with a point and shoot camera.

After our swimming lessons, we got to know each other better.  I learned that all the girls were in their mid-20s.  Fatou 1 and 2 both had children, but were single mothers.  They live in Serakunda, near Banjul, and were in town to visit one of the girls’ sisters.  We also talked about my run and they asked if I was a sports woman, a question I frequently get.  Then they saw my injured knee and the horrible state of my feet and said: “Oh, sorry, sorry!” and fussed over me a bit.  While my feet were a mess, my French manicure was a hit, however (thanks, Alexis!).  Fatou 1 works in a beauty salon in Serrakunda and when I said that I had broken a few finger nails during my journey, she told me to come by before leaving for Europe and she would fix my hair and my nails “real nice”.  Sounds great!  I took her number and will pay her a visit when I go to explore the Serrakunda market.

After the girls left, I relaxed by the bar for a while and now it is time to go to bed.  No need to set the alarm for tomorrow, as it is our second and last rest day before the final push to Banjul.  We have covered over 300 kilometers now and we can hear the call of the Atlantic Ocean.  But before then, I think the swimming pool will be calling a few more times!

Best from the President’s home town!

Bintou

Day 10 July 4 – Pounding sand

Posted on by

The first two miles today were full of starts and stops.  Just a few hundred meters into the run, I realized I hadn’t put sunscreen on, so we waved Pa Modou and Spider over and I protected my toubab skin.  A kilometre later, the gauze I had only taped to my injured knee today came off.  Kebba and I stopped again to get a clean gauze and a bandage to wrap the injured area and protect it from flies and dust.  And before we could get too far down the road, I needed a nature break.  Then, finally, we settled into a rhythm and the going was good.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day10

There had been no rain, so it was already hot and the dirt road was dry and dusty.  The dust clung to my sweat and sunscreen and soon there were redish-brown rivulets running down my legs.  Cars, taxis, tractors and large trucks driving by us belched black exhaust and swirled up clouds of dust that further covered us.  I felt the grit of the sand between my teeth and behind my contact lenses.

Meeting incredible people…every single step of the way!

We stopped at a few villages to talk to people.  Each of these conversations helps to create awareness of the Nova Scotia Gambia Association, its life-saving health education programs and about important health issues.  It is also an opportunity to network in these communities and to pave the way future involvement in these places where NSGA may not have a presence to date.

We came upon some people sitting in the shade of a tree and an ancient looking man with one arm came up to me to shake my hand.  He asked in Mandinka what we were doing and the guys filled him in on our mission.  I believe that by now I have heard just about every sound that Gambians make to express surprise and disbelief.  This old man made one of these sounds and the toothpick he had been chewing on fell out of his mouth.  I don’t believe he even noticed.  He stared at me open-mouthed and to break his spell I laughed and slapped my right thigh saying: “Strong legs!”  As if to verify, he then also slapped his hand on my leg and then gave my quad a couple of squeezes.

Well behaved little Gambians getting a treat from the Love4Gambia 2012 super team.

Later, while sipping some Gatorade in the shade, a group of children and their mothers came over and we handed out minties to the little ones and our empty water bottles to the women.  People are always keen to take the empty 1.5 litre bottles off our hands, as they are used in the compounds to carry and store water and other liquids as well as small things.

The kilometres kept ticking by and I was feeling good.  As every day, I thanked my body for staying healthy and for putting up with the demands I’ve been placing on it these last few days.  After 16 kilometers, Kebba was relieved by Spider who ran the remaining distance with me, which turned out to be nearly 17 kilometers today. When only about 6 kilometers remained, Pa Modou called me over to the car to tell me I had a phone call.  I have on occasion talked to media on the phone during a run and often had calls from the NSGA’s country director and assistant director in Banjul to tell me how proud they were of the team and to encourage us.  But this call was a surprise from Marc back home who wanted to send some love and encouragement all the way from Canada.  I stood by the side of the road in the shade and talked to him for a while.  It was great to hear his voice.  Then I carried on for the last push.

Heat stroke!

By now, the heat had become completely oppressive again and a hot wind was suffocating and draining every remaining ounce of energy out of me.  Suddenly, the going was not so good anymore.  We had also been faced with rolling hill after rolling hill today and my tired legs were feeling the effects.  The time between beeps from my Garmin to alert me that another mile was covered seemed to get longer and longer.

A well deserved rest after the run.

Eventually, we reached the target for today and then carried on a little past this point to find a good shady spot to rest.  A boy who had been herding a few donkeys past us came by and soon two others followed.  They looked on as I stretched and changed out of my shoes.  I asked them if they liked football.  Silly question, as there isn’t one Gambian boy who isn’t football crazy.  I then walked to the car and got out some football stickers and minties for them.  One of the boys pulled one of the stickers off and put it on his shirt, a big smile spreading on his face.

As every day at the end of our run, Pa Modou, our social media king who regularly posts Facebook updates on our progress, read us all the messages of support that had come in that day.  This is always a great part of our day and we laugh, uhhh and ahhh, clap and occasionally tear up when hearing the kind words send to us by friends, family and even people I have never met in person.  Thank you so much and keep them coming!

We packed up and drove to our camp a little further down the road.  This is where the dirt road ends and I’ll be back on pavement tomorrow.  This is also the camp where I had met the three toubabs who were working on the road project when we drove up to Koina last week.  The music was still blaring in the seating area under the roof and we ordered some cold colas.  The camp is directly adjacent to an army base.  A couple of soldiers were hanging around – one was getting his hair cut with clippers by a mate while another was polishing his heavy, black army boots.  All of them were wearing fatigues matched with t-shirts or a bare chest and flip flops on their feet.  And all of them looked like they could be in an ad for a gym.

I could barely stay awake during lunch.  The heat had completely zapped my energy and there was no rain cloud in the sky.  After eating, I retired to my room.  Sleep would not come, but I lay immobile on the bed for a few hours.  The team is tired and we are all looking forward to the upcoming rest day on Friday.  But before then, the South Bank Road demands another 30-some kilometres tomorrow.

Hugs from our Gambian river camp,

Andrea aka Bintou, toubab, coach, crash (collecting a whole list of new names!)

Day 9 July 3 – What a difference a day can make!

Posted on by

Those who have been following this blog know that yesterday was a tough day for me.  The heat, lack of sleep, wear and tear on my body and likely also a shortage of calories the previous day had all gotten to me.  Only the thought that my pain was nothing compared to that of Saikou’s father, who died a painful and unnecessary death due to an untreated stomach ulcer and the pain of many other people in the Gambia who do not have access to health care, kept me going.  But what a difference a day can make!

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day9

We had a big storm and lots of rain late the previous afternoon and this brought a welcome breeze and a slight drop in temperatures.  As a result, I was able to sleep well and even slept through my alarm.  I didn’t wake up until 6:45, more than an hour later than my usual time.  I had clearly needed the rest, so I didn’t mind that it would mean running in the hotter part of the day.  We got on the road quickly after I taped my feet and knee, and to give myself a boost, I broke out a brand new, never used pair of Mizuno Ronins.  Following a 20 kilometer drive back on the road from Soma to where I left off the previous day, we began to run.

Team Love4Gambia 2012 is reaching star status!

It was still somewhat cool, so the going was good.  But before we got far down the road, we came upon a village where a group of men were sitting by the roadside.  One of them  asked me to where I was running and when we told him we were heading from Koina to Banjul, he wanted to know my reasons.  He had never heard of anyone running from Koina to the coast and pulled out the latest and greatest iPhone model to record us and my response.  “I am running for your children,” I told him and explained that my run was a fundraiser for children’s health education programs. By now, lots of kids had come out of the village to see what was happening and to meet the toubab.  The usual fist bumps, high fives and smiles ensued, as did the photo taking and then showing the kids their pictures on the display of my digital camera.  But as always, there was one child that ran away screaming in fear of the strange white person.

I was feeling good and the first 10 kilometers went by quickly.  I felt relieved and grateful that this morning would not be a repeat of yesterday.  By the time we got to 15 kilometers, it was getting hot out.  But I knew that we would come through Soma soon where we could buy some ice.  I also looked forward to buying a cold Coke, which would be a nice treat.  A mass taxi came by and the driver honked a greeting as he went past.  When the van came to a stop at the police road block up ahead, I saw squeezed in the back, the man who had been video recording our conversation earlier.  He gave me a broad smile and a thumbs up.  Only 2 kilometers left to Soma now.

Once we reached the busy town, which is at the cross road to Senegal, I received lots of shouts of encouragement.  I stopped at a shop and bought a cold Coke.  The sugar, caffeine and cold liquid gave me a big boost.  I also purchased a banana from a woman carrying a tray full on her head.  Thus strengthened, I ran through the rest of the town before turning left on the road to Banjul.

Here the pavement ended and I was back on a bumpy dirt road.  Parts of the road were quite muddy from yesterday’s rain and my white, new Mizunos were soon coated in the red mud of the South Bank Road.  Over a week ago, when we drove from Banjul to the start point of the run in Koina, we had stopped at a camp to buy some water.  Three toubabs were sitting in the shade of a metal roof with some locals, tunes cranked and rocking out to Bob Marley.  I had gone over to meet them and learned that the toubabs were from Ireland, South Africa and Germany and were working on a road project.  They had not yet completed the work to Soma and from where I finished my run today, I will have approximately another 50 kilometers of dirt road ahead before I reach asphalt again.  The guys were impressed by our Love4Gambia venture and made a donation in the amount of 500 Dallasis (the local currency) on the spot.  But before getting back to the place I met them, there are still two more days of running.

Thank god for the shade of the baobab tree!

Since it was pretty hot by now and the heat was radiating off the road, I stopped under a baobab tree to enjoy its shade for a moment.  A boy came over with an open baobab fruit in his hand and gave me some to try.  Soon other children followed and I handed out some stickers.  The kids were so well behaved – there was no shoving or grabbing, but they all patiently waited their turn and then repaid me with big smiles.  Our next stop would be the finish of today’s run!  When we reached 20.46 miles, there was a nice big tree on the side of the road.  We set up our temporary rest camp under its canopy and called it a day.

The beautiful children of the Gambia. Help them by clicking the “Donate Now” button.

Across from us in a field some women were working.  They waved at us and we headed into the field to say hello.  It turns out, this same spot had been a rest spot for Erin when she ran across the Gambia last year and the women remembered seeing the team.  Following the introductions, the guys and I took the hoes from the women and worked the field for a little, bit by bit loosening up the tough ground for planting rice.  The woman sang and chanted while we worked.  They even composed a song for me and sang out my name as part of the lyrics.  There was also dancing in the middle of this field and spirits were high even though they were out doing back breaking work in the hot sun.  Some of the women had children in the schools that are benefitting from the health education programs of the Nova Scotia Gambia Association, so the women expressed their thanks for what the team was doing.  It was a touching and heart-warming meeting.

We then drove back to Soma where we will spend another night before moving on tomorrow.  We had lunch in town and rested in the afternoon.  Next, a group of teenage kids came over to take part in a drama class Pa Modou had offered to teach.   Theatre is storytelling and a significant part of the culture.  It is also an excellent way to communicate the important health messages the NSGA wants to share with youth in the Gambia.  It was fun to watch these teens engaged and performing their skits.  Even though I didn’t understand a word, as the plays were performed in the local language, it was obvious that a good time was had by all.

While I was watching the children, an SUV with a Gambian flag attached on the front drove into the courtyard.  The person inside was the Governor of the Lower River Region, the official representative of the President in these parts.  He heard about what we were doing and had asked to be introduced to me.  We had a pleasant conversation and he expressed his appreciation for the project as well as his promise to join part of the run next year.

As I am sitting here writing and sweating, the clouds are rolling in again and the wind is picking up.  Looks like we will get more rain and with that hopefully another good night’s sleep.

Thanks again for all the great and encouraging comments, as well as for the many shares of this blog on Facebook.  It is hard to put in words how much your support means to me! Please encourage your friends to donate to Love4Gambia through our website to help us make a difference in the lives of children here in the Gambia!

Talk to you all tomorrow.  Love from Soma,

Bintou

Day 8 July 2 – Mark the milestones!

Posted on by

Today was our seventh running day and it was a day marked by many milestones.  First, we left the Central River Region behind and arrived in the Lower River Region.  Then we reached the 200 kilometer mark and we were moving along to reach the half-way point between Koina and Banjul.   After today, I would also be half way through the long week of running six consecutive days without rest. And finally, Kebba ran the distance of a half marathon with me today!  There was much to celebrate and to motivate the team, but it was also my toughest day to date.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day8

Once again, the heat proved to be my kryptonite.  It had been unbearable hot and no air was stirring the previous afternoon and I found it tough to get any rest.  As there had been no rain over night, the air had not cooled at all and even at 7:00 a.m. when we started to run, it was sweltering and humid with no breeze to provide relief.  I was barely a kilometre into the day’s run when my light Mizuno clothing was already drenched in sweat and more sweat was running down my face, torso and legs.

The day after the ski accident; got to keep smiling!

Along with the miles I had run, the aches and pains in my body had also started adding up.  My left knee continued to be sore and I also had some discomfort in the arch of my left foot.  The shoulder I had hurt in a ski accident last winter was also aching.  And last but not least, my stomach was not feeling 100%.  It was going to be a long day on the road.

Getting acquainted with ever smiling Gambians!

As always, Kebba started by my side while Pa Modou and Spider did the driving, photography and provided comic relief.  We didn’t get very far when we met the first people who wanted to say hello and find out what we were doing.  We stopped to talk for a little while.  In the next village where people came to speak to us, the kids told me that there was someone named Bintou in their compound as well.  A child was dispatched and reappeared moments later with a baby in her arms.  The tiny girl was my namesake and she was content to let me hold her.

In spite of the cheers and smiling faces along the way, I struggled.  I don’t think I have ever sweated so much and also had to pee about every kilometre.  It was impossible to replenish all the fluid lost and I began to get a headache. At every community we passed, the team tried to find ice or at least some cold drinks to cool me down, but there was none to be had.  To make matters worse, the road had also decided to give me a hard time today and threw a few good rolling hills at me.  I trudged on.  Vultures were circling above to swoop in and feast on the many dead cows and donkeys we saw by the road today.  I gave them defiant looks.

Kebba then told me they had a surprise for me.  This was welcome news as I needed all the help I could get today.  A bit further up the road, I saw a group of school children lining the street.  They were there to cheer me on!  With them was Lamin and some of the peer educators who were there to teach a course on malaria.  I had a nice visit with the students and then it was time to continue the push for the half way mark of our journey.

Shortly after leaving the school behind, an older boy on a motorbike stopped to say hello and ask to where we were running.  To Banjul, we told him.  Banjul?  Yes, we said, from Koina.  As so often there was utter disbelief in his face and as we continued running, I saw him a long while later still parked by the side of the road, staring after us incredulously.

Team Love4Gambia 2012 has reached the halfway point to Banjul!

We stopped to celebrate the half way mark and then I had about four kilometres left to go.  I walked for a few hundred meters until I reached the shade of a tree and the guys again tried to find ice.  No luck.  After a brief rest in the shade, I pushed on.  When we finally reached today’s end point, I was feeling dizzy and nauseous.  The guys put out my new mat and pillow and I lay down resting my legs against the trunk of the tree.  It took a while before the nausea subsided and I could have something to eat.  We then got into the car and drove the 20-some kilometres to Soma where we were to spend the night.

Once in town, we went to a restaurant for lunch and I had some coke.  The food and drink restored me somewhat.  Then we walked into the narrow back alleys where people were selling their wares and I bought a piece of fabric that we then took to a tailor to make into a wrap.  To date, I had been making the return trips to our accommodation in my wet shorts, but this was probably not the healthiest way to go.  The new wrap will now be what I’ll wear until we get to a shower.  The boys were patient while I was shopping and indulged me by walking from stall to stall with me to choose the prettiest fabric.  Those who know me well know that I am never too tired to shop.

We then settled into our accommodation and got cleaned up.  Seconds after washing, I was bathed in sweat again.  But a few hours later, the rain started.  It is pouring hard and water is standing in puddles and running off in small creeks everywhere while thunder and lightning are cracking.  There is also a bit of a breeze – sweet relief!

For those who are waiting for Garmin data, I spent the entire afternoon downloading plug-ins, ANT agent, software updates and more, but for some reason my Garmin is not transferring the activities to the web page.  While I can see the activities in the device’s history, any attempt to transfer gives me a message stating there is no new data.  I give up for now and will try to trouble shoot next time the stars align and I have an internet connection and power at the same time.

Here’s hoping that tomorrow will feel easier than today!

Bintou.

Days 6 and 7 – June 30 and July 1 – The journey continues…

Posted on by

After the late night of our naming ceremony on the evening of my first rest day, the alarm sounded early.  I got up, packed my things, cleaned and disinfected my toes and knee and then we drove back to the point where I had left off running on Thursday.  We hadn’t been able to find any food in town to have breakfast, so I had a Honey Stinger waffle and was on my way on only 180 calories for the morning.  For the start of a new day after the rest, I put on a fresh pair of shoes – my Mizuno Mushas.  I was sleepy and worried about my blisters, but they didn’t hurt very much.  Yet my knee was quite stiff and achy and still hadn’t forgiven me the fall on day one.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day6

It was overcast and there was a slight breeze.  This helps my running a lot.  We had few stops as there were fewer villages along the way, so we made good progress.  The knee stopped aching about 10 kilometers into the run.  All systems go!

When we did come to a village, a group of women came over to greet me and asked me how my family was.  We all shook hands and they welcomed me to their village.  Before I knew it we were at the half way point.  In another village a boy started running with me and tagged along for a couple of kilometres wearing a smile on his face the whole time.

In another village, a young mother was out by the road holding her baby in her arms.  The infant boy, Moussa, was the first baby that didn’t cry in fright at the sight of this toubab.  In fact, he even let me hold him and happily tested his toothless gums on the tube of my hydration pack.  Surely there was a tooth breaking through soon.

Since I was feeling relatively good and the temperature was more bearable today I decided to get an extra couple of kilometres in and finished the day at almost 32 kilometers.   Over 150 kilometers had now been completed on the route to Banjul.  Following some stretching and rest on the roadside, we began the long drive back to Jan Jang Bureh where we had accommodations for the night.  A truck was broken down by the side of the road.  We stopped to see if we could help.  This is what people do in the Gambia.  There was no question of driving by with the “that’s not my problem” attitude or relying on the fact that someone else will probably help.  We gave the man a lift to the next village where he could find a mechanic.  I then fell asleep in the car, completely exhausted, and slept until we got to our accommodation.  I sat in the car while Pa Modou sorted out details.

While I was waiting, three girls came up to me carrying their exercise book and a notebook from school.  One girl asked me if I liked my job. She then wrote down my answer.  Next she asked me what my job was – not easy to explain to a 7 year old who speaks English as a second language.  But we managed and again she recorded my answer carefully with one of the older girls and myself helping her spell the occasional word.  I saw in her exercise book that her homework task was to “practice with a friend”.  The girls also wanted to know my name and I told them I was Bintou.

I settled into my room and following a shower, I began drafting my blog report from the rest day.   My room had air conditioning, so I was in heaven! I had not gotten very far in my writing when a voice called out: “Bintou!”  I answered the door and there were my little girlfriends.  I shared some of the cookies I had been munching on and we talked for a little while before I told them I had to continue working.  I also wanted a nap desperately.  But not 10 minutes later, they were back at the door, asking me if I wanted to join them to go to “the grave”.  How could I say no to these sweet little girls? So we started walking and I again petted the dog laying lazily in the same shady spot where he’d been since our arrival.  The girls took me to a graveyard to show me the tombstones.  While walking, we looked for lizards, talked about monkeys, scorpions and snakes, which they apparently often see in their compound.    We also talked about their favourite subjects in school.  Back in the yard of our accommodation, we said our good-byes and I again said hi to the lazy dog.  Then I finished writing my blog.  By now the sun had set.

In order to send my blog to Marc for posting, I had to go outside so I could get a network.  I put a chair on the path to my room and began the painfully slow process of logging on.  The lazy dog decided it was now cool enough to move and came over to me, tail wagging.  I petted him and talked to him while slowly going through the various log in steps.  He began to chew the USB key that connected me to the internet and then put his front legs on my lap to come closer for more love.  He licked my arms, then went around behind me, jumped with his front legs on my chair back and shoulders and then began to pull my pony tail.  Playtime!  When the prayers were starting to be heard from the Mosque, the dog turned in the direction of Mecca, crouched down and started howling at the sound.  I am sure it was the right direction, as Kebba was turned the same way saying his prayers.

Some young boys came over to say hi and when they saw that I liked their dog they asked me if I wanted him as a present.  The generosity of the Gambian people is just like that.  I wish I could have taken this funny dog with the chewed off ears with me and to accept the gift from the boys, but can’t even imagine the amount of paperwork involved in something like this, so this dog will have to keep providing his entertainment to the boys right here.

The Nova Scotia volunteers had now also arrived after their teaching day and we had a late dinner together.  Then I again collapsed into my bed to rest up for day six.

love4gambia 2012 Progress Map day7

On this day, we found breakfast in town and then took on the 30 kilometer drive to yesterday’s end point.  Once there, I got out of the car, stretching my tight hip flexors and hamstrings.  Kebba again joined me for the first part of the run and after the usual morning team photo, we set off to shouts of “To Banjul” and “Banjul calling!”.  Kebba stuck with me for a whole 15 kilometers today.  Then Spiderman took over and kept me company for 13 kilometers.  We stopped frequently today to speak to children, to run with a group of little girls.  In each village, I would greet people with “Salaam Aleikum” or “Nmumbara, nmumbara” people waved and returned the greeting.  Drivers of passing trucks, cars and motorcycles, as well as the mini bus taxis that were stuffed full of people and had loads of luggage and live goats strapped to the roof, would beep their horns and give a wave.

Girl power!

I always rewarded the kids who ran with me with some candy and stopped at our car to give some to three young girls who had joined me.  They then ran a little further with me and as I said my good-bye, they asked for another “sweetie” and I gladly obliged.  As I turned to put the rest of the package back into the car, one of them called out: “Toubab!” and when I turned around, added: “Very good!” with a big smile on her face.  It is these encounters with the kids for whom I am running that always get me through the day, no matter how tired or tight my body is starting to feel.

Some boys herding cows admired my hydration pack at another stop.  One of them had figured out that I was drinking from the tube and explained this to his friends in Wolof.  I only guessed at what he was saying because he was pointing and gesturing.  So, I decided to give them a demonstration, took a deep draught from the tube and then spat the water on the ground.  The crowd erupted in laughter and I had to perform my trick a few more times.

While on the road today, the guys picked up a woven grass mat and a small stool from an old man selling his wares by the roadside.  Now I have a place to sit when I change my socks and shoes partway through the run and a better place than the floor mats from the car to lay down and rest after the run as well as to do some stretching.  As I did so today, a group of children kept calling out to me, waving from a short distance away.  Since they kept calling and smiling, I thought I’d walk over and say hello.  This again prompted one little girl to run away crying.  The scary toubab strikes again!

I am now over 180 kilometers into the run and will reach the half way mark before the conclusion of tomorrow’s run.  We are now settled into our accommodation and I cleaned up with a bucket shower, as there is no bathroom in my room.  The bucket shower is just a stall in the courtyard with a corrugated metal roof and a drain in the floor.  A man brought a bucket of water and a cup.  I poured water over me, soaped myself, and then poured more water to rinse off.  When I came out of the shower, the boys were all sleeping outside on the porch in front of our rooms.  They work hard keeping me fed, running with me and looking after me!  Next we had lunch and I will now try to nap a little to help my body recover.  So much more running ahead…

Hugs and kisses,

Bintou

Day 5 June 29 – Rest Day and Baptism

Posted on by

Friday is the Muslim holy day and a day off for the team.  We slept in, enjoyed a cup of coffee and relaxed in the morning.  While I was sitting outside by the river, I was again joined by the kids from the compound.  Sadjo, the 12 year old, and I had developed a bond and she was following me everywhere like a shadow whenever she didn’t have chores or was sent on an errand.  We had fun conversations, goofed around and I learned lots about life in the Gambia from this young girl.

In the afternoon, the four volunteers from Nova Scotia and Oumie were going to one of the schools to deliver the water program. Pa Modou, Kebba and I joined them, while Spider started cooking dinner.  I had a chance to see firsthand the amazing work done by the Nova Scotia Gambia Association.  The kids in the class were being trained to become peer health educators who will learn about water-borne disease and will then share their knowledge with other children at the school and in their community at large.

Clean water is a scarce resource, particularly in Africa, but it is a necessity to sustain life.  We take for granted that we can turn on the tab to hydrate and clean our bodies, wash our dishes and our clothes as well as cook our meals.  Yet in Africa, only half the population has access to clean water.  Every 20 seconds, a child dies of water-borne illnesses, such as cholera, dysentery, Hepatitis A, typhoid fever or diarrhea.  The volunteers teach the children about these diseases, their symptoms, what to do when symptomatic and most importantly, how to prevent these diseases.  The students are eager to learn, ask many questions and contribute to the subjects discussed.  The knowledge of these kids was impressive and I learned a thing or two from the volunteers and students.  I frankly had no idea what exactly the small versus the large intestine does, but the kids readily volunteered the information when asked.  The knowledge they receive and share through this program is empowering and puts them in charge of their health.  The volunteers did an outstanding job engaging these kids who were tired from writing an exam in the morning and from helping with chores at home before coming to school.   Your donation dollars go towards ensuring that the Nova Scotia Gambia Association can continue to deliver these life-saving programs in schools across the Gambia.

While at the school, we had lunch.  One of the school’s staff had prepared a big pot of domodah and in typical Gambian fashion, we all ate out of the communal dish using only our right hand.  So far, I had shared many meals in this way, but always had bread to scoop out the food.  This time, we just mixed the sauce and rice with our fingers, picked some up and squeezed it in the palm of our hand to make a ball, so we can put it in our mouth.  Easier said than done!  Try this at home and see how you make out.  I had rice squirting out of the side of my hand from applying too much pressure or the neat ball falling apart as soon as I opened my palm.  I guess I am still in training.

As the afternoon wore on, my legs stiffened up from sitting most of the day and my lower legs and ankles were swollen.  My blisters were also very painful and I could see an infection was beginning to spread, as there was redness and throbbing.  I needed to take care of my feet to be able to resume running the next day.  When we got back to our accommodation, this was priority number one.  After washing my feet thoroughly, I took a syringe to drain the fluid that had built up again out of the blisters.  This took some time and was carefully observed by my little friend Sadjo and a small crowd of people who all kept saying: “Oh, sorry, sorry!”. Once drained and disinfected, I applied some sterile gauze and then taped the toes.  Next, I put on my Mizuno compression socks to reduce the swelling in my legs and to keep my feet clean.

Gambian woman in traditional dress

The NSGA volunteers and I had been told there would be a surprise for us in the evening.  Late in the afternoon, Oumie came to see us and brought all of us traditional African clothing and head dress.  Sadjo helped me get dressed and tied the fabric around my head.  Then all the boys and men commented how beautiful we were.  We later went to relax in our rooms waiting for dinner when we heard drumming and singing from the courtyard outside.  Upon investigating, we found a group of people from the nearby villages and the entire Fatty family.  This evening was going to be our naming ceremony where we were to be given Gambian names.  This involved a lot of spirited dancing and singing, as well as drumming and blowing a whistle.  It is incredible what beautiful music an old, empty plastic gas canister and a couple of sticks can make when combined with lovely African voices!  We danced in the middle of the circle and watched the African women bust their moves.  Laughter and music rang out into the night sky as lightning gave the promise of more rain over night.

Traditional Gambia Dancing

Fatty then asked the four volunteers and me to sit on a mat for the naming.  He spoke in Mandinka and let us know how welcome we were at their home and how much he and his family appreciated the respect we had extended to him and his people.  Pa Modou translated his word and I am sure I speak for all five of us when I say we were moved.  As I had been the first one to arrive at the house, I was called upon first to receive my Gambian name.  Fatty honoured me by giving me the same name as his wife, Bintou, a warm, caring, worldly and generous woman who is a mean cook to boot and who I had come to respect a great deal during my stay in Bansang.  Bintou came over to hug me and to tell me how pleased she was with this choice.  I was almost moved to tears.  Pam, Katie, Lauren and Stephanie then also received their Gambian names, all named after close relatives and dear friends of the Fatty family.  Then the dancing and singing continued.  Sadjo was by my side and we danced together.  It was an absolutely magical night.  Spider, Kebba, Pa Modou, Lamin and Oumie were also dancing the night away, but Spider clearly stole the show and had the many kids erupt in fits of giggles when shaking and grinding his hips and stomping his feet.

It was getting late and I was exhausted and hot from dancing. My thoughts began to turn to morning when I would have to rise early to run another 30 kilometers.  My blisters were hurting and as much as I wanted to enjoy every moment of this night, I knew I had to go to bed.  The ceremony wound up around 11:00 p.m. and we settled on the porch for a late dinner.  I didn’t eat much, as I was too exhausted at this point, but made sure I got some food in.  Then I began making the rounds to say my good-byes as we would leave early.  Fatty once again expressed his appreciation and told me I was part of his family and welcome back any time.  He kissed my cheeks and then planted a fatherly kiss on my forehead.  Bintou hugged me repeatedly and told me I would never be forgotten.  Sadjo was also there and I know I will miss her.

At around midnight, I collapsed into bed.  6:00 a.m. would be here before I know it and the road will be waiting.

With love,

Bintou